CROCHET OFF-SHOULDER SWEATER — TUTORIAL & PATTERN

Pattern Use & Copyright

This pattern is an original design by NAVI New York. Please do not copy, share, resell, or redistribute this pattern (in full or in part), including the instructions or techniques. If you share your work, I’d appreciate a tag or credit: @olga.levinski

Materials

Yarn: approx. 4 skeins total

(I used Lion Brand 100% Wool — 5 oz / 140 g, 299 yd / 273 m per skein)

Hooks:

• 10 mm crochet hook (main body)

• 5 mm or 6 mm crochet hook (ribbing)

Other:

• Elastic

• Scissors

• Stitch markers or contrasting yarn (optional, recommended)

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch — chain

• dc — double crochet

• hdc — half double crochet

• sc — single crochet

• sl st — slip stitch

• inc — increase

• st(s) — stitch(es)

Step 1: Foundation Chain & Setup

Using 10 mm hook:

Loosely measure around your chest including shoulders and from underarm to underarm across the front.
Make a foundation chain equal to that measurement and join with sl st to form a circle.

Example: I chained 88 sts

Step 2: Raglan Stitch Distribution

From the joined chain, distribute stitches as follows:

• 4 sts — raglan lines

• 26 sts — front panel

• 26 sts — back panel

• 16 sts — sleeve

(Adjust numbers based on your own measurements)

Place stitch markers in the 4 raglan stitches — these are where increases will happen.

Step 3: Raglan Increases (Yoke)

Work in dc, in continuous rounds (no turning).

Raglan increase:

3 dc into the same stitch

(Always work increases into the center stitch of the previous increase.)

Rounds:

Work 8 rounds total of dc with raglan increases.

Or continue until the raglan lines meet comfortably under your arms.

Step 4: Join Underarms (Separate Sleeves)

Joining Round (Round 9):

1. Dc until you reach first raglan increase.

2. Work half of a dc into the center raglan stitch.

3. Skip all sleeve stitches.

4. Work half dc into the next raglan center stitch.

5. Yarn over and pull through all loops → connects body underarm.

6. Continue across front.

7. Repeat for second sleeve.

Now sleeves are separated and body is joined.

Step 5: Body Length

Continue working dc in the round with no increases or decreases.

Work 11 rounds (or desired length).

My total body rounds: 12

Step 6: Bottom Ribbing

Switch to 5 mm or 6 mm hook.

Work front post / back post dc alternately around the entire bottom edge.

Ribbing rounds: 2–3 rounds, depending on how wide you want the ribbing.

Fasten off body.

Step 7: Sleeves

Attach yarn at underarm.

Work dc in the round until desired sleeve length.

I worked 18 rounds

Step 8: Sleeve Decreases Before Ribbing

Before ribbing, work 6 decreases evenly around sleeve.

How to calculate:

Total sts ÷ 6 = space between decreases.

Example: 36 ÷ 6 = decrease every 5th & 6th stitch together.

Work one decrease round.

Step 9: Sleeve Ribbing

Using 5 mm or 6 mm hook, work:

• 2 rounds of front post / back post dc alternately

You can stop here — or continue to ruffle edge.

Step 10: Sleeve Ruffles (Optional)

Ruffle Round 1:

Increase 6 times evenly around sleeve

(inc every 5th stitch)

Ruffle Round 2:

Increase every 3rd stitch

Ruffle Round 3:

Increase every 4th stitch

Final Round:

Work sc evenly around.

Fasten off.

Step 11: Off-Shoulder Fold-Over Collar

Return to the original foundation chain row.

Create Elastic Channel

Working from the wrong side, insert hook into stitches of the second-to-last row of the yoke, and work:

• 2 rounds of sc, forming a V-shaped fold opening

This creates space for elastic.

Step 12: Fold-Over Panel

Now working wrong side facing you:

Join the tops of those rows using dc.

Work 10 rounds of dc (or desired height).

Finish with 1 round of sc.

Fasten off.

Finishing

• Insert elastic

• Fasten off

• Weave in all ends

• Steam lightly if needed (do not overheat wool)

Done!

Tag your finished sweater: @olga.levinski — I'd love to see your creation!