CROCHET PEPLUM CORSET TOP — TUTORIAL & PATTERN
Pattern Use & Copyright
This pattern is an original design by NAVI New York. Please do not copy, share, resell, or redistribute this pattern (in full or in part), including the instructions or techniques. If you share your work, I’d appreciate a tag or credit: @olga.levinski
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Materials
• 5 mm crochet hook
• Cotton yarn: Approx. 2.5 skeins total for the sample shown — approximately 6.25 oz (175 g) / 300 yd (273 m)
• Measuring tape
• Scissors
• Yarn needle
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Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms)
• ch — chain
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• sl st — slip stitch
• sc — single crochet
• dc — double crochet
• inc — increase
• sc2tog — single crochet 2 together
• sc3tog — single crochet 3 together
• BLO — back loop only
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Construction Notes
This top is worked in several sections:
• Two shaped cups
• Main corset body
• Upper peplum layer
• Contrasting lower peplum layer
• Edge finishing and ties
The pattern is adaptable and can be adjusted to your own measurements.
The sample shown was made using the measurements listed below. Use your own body measurements and your finished cup measurements to calculate the dimensions of your top.
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Measurements
Take the following measurements before beginning:
Cup Height
Measure from directly under the breast to the highest point of the breast.
Sample: 3 in (7.6 cm)
Underbust Circumference
Measure around your body directly underneath the bust.
Sample: 29.5 in (75 cm)
Waist Circumference
Sample: 27 in (68.5 cm)
Underbust-to-Waist Length
Measure vertically from the underbust to your natural waist.
Sample: 5 in (12.7 cm)
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Cups
Foundation
Make a foundation chain approximately equal to your underbust-to-highest-point measurement.
For the sample:
Ch 10 = approximately 3 in (7.6 cm).
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Row 1
Ch 1
Work 9 sc.
Into the final chain, work 3 sc.
Continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain and work 9 sc.
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Row 2
Ch 1 and turn.
Work 10 sc.
Work 3 sc into the center stitch of the previous row’s increase.
Work 10 sc.
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Row 3
Ch 1 and turn.
Work 11 sc.
Work 3 sc into the center stitch of the previous row’s increase.
Work 11 sc.
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Continue Shaping
Continue working in the same way.
With every new row, you will have 1 additional sc on each side before and after the center increase.
Continue until the lower edge of the cup reaches your calculated cup width.
To calculate the width of one cup, divide your underbust circumference by 4:
Cup Width = Underbust Circumference ÷ 4
Example shown:
29.5 in (75 cm) ÷ 4 = 7.4 in (18.75 cm)
My finished cup measured approximately 7.3 in (18.5 cm) along the lower edge.
Continue adding rows until your cup reaches approximately this measurement.
Also check the cup against your body as you work to make sure you are comfortable with the coverage.
Sample Cup
Finished width along the lower edge:
7.3 in (18.5 cm)
Total:
13 rows
Final row:
• 21 sc
• 3 sc into center stitch
• 21 sc
Make 2 identical cups.
After completing the second cup, position the two cups together and join them with a sl st.
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Calculating the Corset Width
Before beginning the body, calculate how much fabric you need on either side of the cups.
The back of the corset is intentionally left open for lacing.
For the sample, I left approximately:
5 in (12.7 cm)
between the two back edges.
Because crochet fabric can stretch, the finished opening may change slightly when worn.
Use the following formula:
Side Width = (Underbust Circumference − Total Cup Width − Back Opening) ÷ 2
Where:
• Underbust Circumference = your body measurement
• Total Cup Width = width of one finished cup × 2
• Back Opening = desired space between the corset edges for lacing
• Side Width = length needed on each side of the cups
Sample Calculation
Underbust:
29.5 in (75 cm)
Two cups:
7.3 in × 2 = 14.6 in
(18.5 cm × 2 = 37 cm)
Back opening:
5 in (12.7 cm)
Calculation:
(29.5 − 14.6 − 5) ÷ 2 = 4.95 in
Rounded:
5 in (12.7 cm) per side
For my gauge, approximately 16 chains measured 5 in (12.7 cm).
Important: Use the physical length of your chain rather than copying the sample stitch count, since yarn, hook size and tension can change the number of stitches required.
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Joining the Cups & Beginning the Body
Ch the number of stitches required for your calculated side width.
Sample:
Ch 16 = approximately 5 in (12.7 cm)
Continue directly across the lower edge of the first cup in sc.
Work the same number of stitches across the lower edge of each cup.
Sample:
26 sc across each cup
At the center where the cups meet, work the last stitch of the first cup and the first stitch of the second cup together as sc2tog.
This creates a cleaner center connection between the cups.
Continue in sc across the second cup.
At the opposite side, chain the same number of stitches used for the first side.
Sample:
Ch 16.
The sample has:
85 sts total
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Corset Body
The body is worked back and forth in rows of sc.
Ch 1 and turn at the beginning of every row.
To shape the corset toward the waist, decrease at both sides every fourth row.
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Rows 1–3
Ch 1 and turn.
Work sc evenly across.
No decreases.
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Row 4 — Decrease Row
Ch 1 and turn.
To determine the placement of the first decrease, use the number of stitches you originally added for each side section and subtract 1.
Side Section Stitch Count − 1 = Stitches Before First Decrease
For the sample:
16 − 1 = 15 stitches
Work 15 sc.
Work sc3tog over the next 3 stitches.
A sc3tog turns 3 stitches into 1 stitch, decreasing the stitch count by 2 stitches.
Continue across until you reach the corresponding decrease point on the opposite side.
Work another sc3tog, positioned the same distance from the opposite edge.
Finish the row in sc.
This decreases the row by 4 stitches total.
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Rows 5–7
Work evenly in sc without decreases.
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Row 8 — Decrease Row
Repeat the same decrease placement.
Move each decrease 1 stitch closer toward the center than in the previous decrease row.
Sample progression:
• First decrease row → 15 sts before decrease
• Second → 14 sts
• Third → 13 sts
• Fourth → 12 sts
Continue following the same principle.
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Continue Shaping
Repeat:
3 rows without decreases + 1 decrease row
until the corset body reaches your desired length.
Sample:
• Approx. 5 in (12.7 cm) long
• 23 rows total
• 5 decrease rows
• 65 sts remaining in the final row
Your number of rows may vary depending on your row gauge and desired corset length.
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Upper Peplum
The upper peplum is worked directly from the bottom edge of the corset.
The first row is worked in BLO. This leaves the unused front loops available for attaching the contrasting lower layer later.
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Row 1 — Increase Row
Ch 1 and turn.
Working in BLO:
Work 6 sc.
Inc in the next stitch.
Repeat:
6 sc, inc
across the row.
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Rows 2–3
Work through both loops.
Sc evenly across without increases.
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Row 4 — Increase Row
Repeat:
6 sc, inc
across.
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Continue
Continue adding an increase row every third row:
1 increase row + 2 rows without increases
until the peplum reaches your desired length and fullness.
The final row should finish on the right side of the work.
Sample:
12 rows total
Do not fasten off after completing the upper peplum. This yarn will be used later to continue the edge finishing.
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Contrasting Lower Peplum
The second peplum layer is worked in a contrasting color and extends slightly below the upper layer.
Join the contrasting yarn to the row where the upper peplum began.
Work into the unused front loops left from the first peplum row.
This layer is worked primarily in dc.
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Row 1
Work dc evenly across.
No increases.
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Row 2
Repeat:
1 dc, inc
across.
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Row 3
Work dc evenly across.
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Row 4
Repeat:
2 dc, inc
across.
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Row 5
Work dc evenly across.
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Row 6
Work sc evenly across to finish the edge.
Sample:
6 rows total
Continue the same increase progression if you would like a longer lower peplum:
• Increase through every 1 stitch
• Then every 2 stitches
• Then every 3 stitches, etc.
Continue until the contrasting layer extends slightly below the upper peplum.
Fasten off the contrasting yarn.
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Edge Finishing
Return to the working yarn left attached to the upper peplum.
At the corner:
Ch 1, sc into the same corner space.
Align the two peplum layers.
Work sc through both layers along the side edge to join them neatly together.
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Back Lacing Loops
The back edges need evenly spaced openings for the corset lacing.
Count the number of stitches that fit along your back edge and distribute the openings as evenly as possible.
Depending on your stitch count, the openings may be spaced approximately every:
• 3 stitches
• 4 stitches
• 5 stitches
For the sample, the openings are spaced every 4 stitches.
Repeat:
4 sc, ch 1, skip 1 st
along the back edge.
At the corner work:
sc, ch 1, sc
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Cup Edging
Continue working sc around the cup.
At the upper point of each cup, work:
3 sc into the corner stitch
to turn smoothly around the point.
Continue in sc around the cup edge.
At the center between the two cups, work sc2tog to shape the center neatly.
Continue around the second cup in the same way.
Work the opposite back edge to mirror the first side, including the same number and spacing of lacing openings.
Join and fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
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Back Ties
Join yarn to the upper point of one cup.
Create a chain to your desired tie length.
As you make the chain, use your thumb to pull and tighten each chain stitch, creating a dense, cord-like tie.
Sample:
Approximately 200 ch
Finished length approximately:
47 in (119 cm)
Repeat for the second cup, making both ties the same length.
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Back Lacing
Thread the cord through the openings along both back edges in a crisscross pattern.
Adjust the lacing until the corset fits comfortably and securely.
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Done!
Tag your finished piece @olga.levinski — I’d love to see your version!